Discover the flavourful gastronomy of Shikoku , Japan 

The island of Shikoku lies off the south coast of Honshu and is connected to the mainland by road and rail bridges. On one side is the shimmering green Seto Inland Sea while the swells of the Pacific lap the other. A landscape of thick forest and misty mountains as well as a history of fishing and foraging link the four prefectures of Shikoku. Yet, each prefecture has its own distinct cuisine based on traditions passed down for centuries. In Kagawa, you’ll find wagyu to rival kobe beef and a land that cultivated Japan’s first olive crop. Fresh lemons fill the orchards of Ehime’s islands, while in Tokushima there’s the opportunity to make your own soba noodles, or perhaps join a sake brewery tour in Kochi. There’s something to tickle every tastebud in Shikoku.   

On the northern tip of Shikoku, Kagawa Prefecture boasts a beautiful coastline where sandy paths and isthmuses stretch out into the pale green of the Seto Inland Sea. It’s the smallest prefecture in Japan. Udon noodles from Kagawa, called ‘Sanuki Udon’, are particularly famous. These thick, wheat-based noodles are used in umami-rich broths across the country. Learn how to prepare handmade udon noodles at the Nakano Udon School in Takamatsu. Here, the ancient culinary art of making Sanuki udon is practised and passed on to those lucky enough to visit. These square-shaped noodles have a distinctly chewy texture and have been made in the region since it went by the name of “Sanuki Province” during the Edo period. They are traditionally served with a sardine-based dipping sauce, slurped up with gusto and little regard for fussiness.

You may not associate Japan with olives, but the warm, sun-drenched climate of Kagawa’s Shodoshima Island lends itself to the cultivation of this Mediterranean staple. Groves of ancient, twisting olive trees have covered the island since olive cultivation in Japan began here over a century ago. The warm climate also nurtures the renowned Sanuki beef – marbled and tender as its famous cousin, Wagyu beef. The cows are raised eating the dried fruit after the olive oil is pressed. This feed ensures the cattle produces quality meat with clear fat. As well as this, the olive groves and vegetable fields are fertilised with compost made from cattle manure, a form of recycling-oriented agriculture.

Try Sanuki beef at Steakhouse Ichigo, where the owner personally selects Olive Beef, adhering to strict criteria for lineage, age and fat content so you know that every bite is an experience in itself. 

Taking up a large swathe of northwest Shikoku, Ehime Prefecture is a world of ancient castles, winding walking trails and hundreds of forest shrines. A handful of islands and peninsulas are included in Ehime Prefecture and each offers a bounty of seafood from the Seto Inland Sea. Uwajima is famous for its fresh sea bream and a visit to Kadoya Ekimaehonten restaurant surrounded by Uwadai (known as one of Japan’s top fishing grounds) means trying this local delicacy for yourself. This meaty fish is used in traditional dishes like “Uwajima Tai Meshi” (sea bream fillet marinated in a special sauce and served on a bed of rice).

Cast out in the Kamijima Islands, Iwagi Island is covered in lemon groves. The Debeso Obachan’s farm restaurant is a popular place to stop along the Shimanami Kaido route. A series of roads and bridges link some of Kamijima’s islands making it a road cyclist’s paradise. At Debeso Obachan’s Shop you’ll see patrons sampling beautiful kaiseki cuisine – with more than ten dishes made with the locally-grown Setouchi lemons. It’s a hands-on experience where visitors help create the dishes alongside the Debeso Obachans (“busybody aunties”) before sitting down to a delicious meal of grilled fish, rice and hand-cut tofu, all flavoured with the subtle tang of fresh lemon. 

Kochi Prefecture is where mountain forests hide myriad shrines and a stretch of the Pacific coast is fringed with long sweeps of sand. Salt is harvested from the seashore and fruit grows fat and ripe in the abundant sunshine. Apart from salt, the bounty from the seas and rivers is aplenty in Kochi. Eel is a local favourite, caught fresh from the river and grilled over charcoal – as has been the way for hundreds of years. Try this Kochi staple at Unagiya Naruhachi where freshly grilled eel is served with a spicy kick of wasabi rather than the traditional sansho pepper. 

The warm and humid environment of Kochi Prefecture has made sake distillation difficult, but brewery owners here have risen to the challenge. Rice in the region has been specially cultivated for the climate. The pure water that flows through the Shimanto and Niyodo rivers and deep-sea water infused with minerals give Kochi’s sakes their distinct flavour, making this drink highly sought after across Japan.  Sake from Kochi is known for its sharp dryness, as opposed to sweetness, which pairs beautifully with the region’s umami-rich cuisine. Try a glass of Kochi sake yourself and witness the distillation process on a tour of the Suigei Tosa Kura distillery. 

The land between the small cities and towns of Tokushima Prefecture is filled with zen forests, rushing rivers and Pacific beaches where surfing is king. A sparse population makes it feel as though nature prevails in this region, particularly in the Oku Iya (Iya Valley) where twisting kazura (azalea) vine bridges attract visitors from far and wide. The kazura vines have been used in small-scale objects too and at the Kazura Craft Experience School, visitors can craft baskets and wreaths using kazura vines. 

Within the Oku Iya, the traditional method of making soba noodles remains alive and well. Iya soba differs from other common soba in that it uses little or no binding agent, resulting in noodles that are thick, short, and easily torn for soba. At Oku-Iya Menme Juku – a folk cooperative – visitors can try their hand at making traditional buckwheat noodles before supping on this hearty staple with a zingy dipping sauce. 

Just like a signature cocktail, Japan’s prefectures each have their own take on ramen and Tokushima is no exception. Tokushima-style ramen is known for its rich pork bone and soy base, and features a raw egg cracked into each steaming bowl to thicken the broth. For the quintessential Tokushima ramen experience, find a Tokushimaramen Menou – a restaurant  that began in the prefecture, offering the classic regional ramen experience.